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Havana, Cuba: History, Culture and Historic Theatres
By Herb Stratford

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(Stratford, executive director of the Fox Tucson (AZ) Theatre Foundation, was among those who took part in an educational study tour to Cuba from July 27-31, 2003, following the Miami conference. Following is his account of the five-day trip, which was sponsored by the League and guided by WorldGuest, a travel service provider licensed by the U.S. Department of Treasury. The 59-person group that traveled to Havana included members of LHAT’s board and staff and representatives from League members – staff, board and patrons of member theatres and service providers — as well as members of the League of Theatre Producers and the Theatre Historical Society.)

Arriving at Cuba’s Jose Marti Airport was a bit like a trip back in time to a country largely off-limits to American travelers. The LHAT group was primed after a six-day conference in Miami, and therefore primed for a once in a lifetime experience. As we waited to pass through customs, a crack team of airport cocker spaniels passed us and gave the plane a “once over.” Following the slightly unnerving customs section and baggage retrieval area, the group boarded two buses and headed toward Havana, Cuba's capital.

The purpose of the trip was to visit historic Cuban theatres and to learn about Cuban architecture. Our first stop was the magnificent Teatro Sierra Maestra, a former Paramount movie house built in 1931. Still in use to show films, this 1,000+ seat, Mayan-themed, atmospheric theatre was lit only by daylight through the exit doors, yet it managed to wow everyone in our group. There, we also got our first dose of the friendly street cigar sellers, each who all amazingly had "a friend at the factory!"

Old Havana is rich in public squares, including Plaza de la Cathedral, Plaza de Armas and Plaza de San Francisco, all of which were within walking distance of our hotel, the Parque Central, named for the scenic park it borders. Several main streets such as Calle Obispo are lined with interesting and unique shops and small hotels. Also on the Obispo is the amazing Farmacia Taquechel, a 19th century pharmacy recently restored to its original appearance. Restoration of Cuba's architectural heritage is a serious pursuit of the Cuban government. In fact as we traveled the city, restoration projects dotted the landscape. While many of Cuba's treasures — from the 16th through 20th centuries — are in dire disrepair, some are spectacularly restored, such as the Bacardi building, and the Museo National Palacio de Bellas Artes, the National Museum of Fine Art, both near Parque Central.

A visit to the Scale Model of the City provided an excellent snapshot of the history and spread of this important Caribbean port. Each building in the model was rendered from cigar box wood! Curator Miguel Coyula provided an excellent overview of the growth of the city and described the urban planning methodology that is currently in use by the Cuban government. A lecture and slide show followed, examining the rich architectural history of Havana. A carriage ride around the perimeter of Old Havana revealed sections of the original city walls, the 1912 Central train station, the Custom House at San Francisco Port, the Stock Exchange and other landmarks. Near Parque Central was another landmark structure, the Gran Teatro de la Habana, home of the Ballet National de Cuba and the National Opera of Cuba. The space, sheathed in a 1915 façade, conceals a late 1800s opera house on the scale of the Milan Opera House. Other spaces within this amazing building included another performance area, grand marble staircases and many mysterious locked doors with wax seals. Other theatres of note whose facades we viewed included the Art Deco Fausto Theatre, Teatre Marti, Rex and Ciniceto.

The America, a scaled-down Art Deco theatre that pays homage to Radio City Music Hall, provided another breathtaking trip through time. From its terrazzo globe entryway to the sweeping box seats on either side of the stage, this gem had the entire group snapping away madly with their cameras. The lounge space for both men and women in the America was another unique feature. The furnishings a bit worn but intact, these spaces spoke of a different era in entertainment and culture.

No trip to Cuba would be complete without a sampling of local cuisine. Aside from many fine public restaurants in the city, the Cuban government has licensed private homes to be operated as small restaurants, or paladars, as they are referred to. Reservations are a must, and many swear that the best food in Cuba is to be found at these “mom and pop” affairs. While on the subject of food and drink I must mention that the Cuban Mojito was a favorite of many of our group. In fact, comparisons of various incarnations of the sweet drink were often discussed daily. One favorite came from the Floridita, a Hemingway hangout frequented by many of our group.

An evening at the world-famous Tropicana cabaret was an excellent way to end the day. We had visited the landmark early in the day during a storm, but returned for an evening of fabulous entertainment. The admission price, though pricey at $85 per person, included a bottle of rum for every four people, champagne, hors d'oeuvres and a group photo. Seemingly trapped in a time-warp, the cabaret, which began in 1939, transports its guests to 1950s Cuba when Bugsy Siegel, Myer Lansky, and possibly Michael Corleone roamed the city.

Outside of Old Havana, we visited several newer theatres showing modern films — many American films included. La Rampa, Cinemateca de Cuba and the Yara Theatre are modernist structures in use daily as theatres and cultural centers. Across from Cinemateca is the famous ice cream location of Coppelia, a favorite of Cubans and visitors alike with long lines daily. The National Theatre of Cuba, off of Revolutionary Square, represents the height of modernist architecture in the city. Begun more than 20 years ago, it was only recently completed. With 2,000-plus seats it was more like a modern community center than the theatres to which most of us are partial.

For the ultimate combination of film and art, the ICAIC (Cuban Institute of Cinematographic Art and Industry) offered silk-screened Cuban movie posters, at $5 each. This stop was a hit with a few members of our group who loaded up on posters and some were forced to find a taxi back to the hotel. Much like the “time-warp” experience at the Tropicana is spending just a few minutes on the street in Havana. There you will see American cars from the 1940s and 50s still running, serving as private cars, taxis and tour vehicles. Although slowly being usurped by modern Italian and German autos, 20-25% of the cars we saw on the street were from Detroit's heyday, leading many in our group to spend more than a few frames photographing the fine auto show on every street.

The photographic record of our trip to Cuba will help me, and the rest of our group, remember the sights we experienced and elicit jealously from friends, but the overriding emotion I think we all will share upon viewing the images, is the desire to return to this amazing place. Hopefully, future LHAT trips will be as spectacular as the Cuba trip, enabling members to experience the fabulous historic theatres and memorable architecture of other countries.

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